Engine Mounts

I spent quite a bit of time working on my motor mounts. I started by reading the Cummins installation manual for the B and C
series of engines and looking at the mounting systems used to put the engine into the donor bread van (I helped cut it out, so I
saw how it was installed). I also looked at the mounts used to install the Hercules kit that was provided my MARS (have a
couple of friends who used the kits on their M37's) and systems used to mount Detroit 3-53N's into the M37's. I did a bit of
calculating and design work on paper in my office and ran my designs by a buddy who builds NASCAR pickups for a living
(we are both professional engineers). Then I suspended the engine in the truck, made up a prototype set of brackets, and then
"tweaked" them. After I completed the installation, I "tweaked" them again to adjust for a shifting of the assembly once real
loads got placed on the assembly and to adjust for a couple factors that you think about but have to see in action to fully
appreciate (adjusted the drive line angle a bit just so I could get the grease gun to fit on the zerk in the front u-joint of the short
drive shaft for instance...).

Basically, if you use 7/16" plate and make L brackets coming off the engine and frame and isolate them with neoprene sheets
between the frame and engine brackets, bolt them with grade eight hardware, than hanging the engine in place, measuring, and
fabricating will work well.

The civilian powerwagon and M37 give you a ridged frame to work with, and the clearance is tight enough that you won't be
able to violate any of the design parameters that Cummins is worried about you exceeding (such as the length of the moment
arm from the engine block to the frame...).

Try to get the engine placed as close as you can to the radiator and to the driver's side of the frame in order to maximize the
amount of room that you will have for the transmission setup (which will also help your drive line angles) and your clearance
sideways from the front differential. I suspect that you may have to trim the oil pan and use 2" blocks between the springs and
front axle in order to clear the front differential vertically, I did.

Photos of the right rear engine mount (bellhousing adapter to inside of frame rail location) plate that bolted to the inside of the frame rail, the suspension lift, and the temporary engine mounts may be found on photo page one.  Revisions to this page will include better photos and drawings for all of the mounts.